By Lynndi Lockenour
In a society where women constantly wear shorter and more revealing clothing, it is difficult to imagine a time when less was not considered more. Women don’t usually worry about their ankles showing when heading to the beach or men about taking their shirts off, but there was a time when these things were considered obscene. The first women’s suits in the eighteenth century were far from practical or comfortable; ladies went as far as sewing lead weights into the hem of the “bathing gown” to prevent the dress from floating up and exposing her legs.
Men also dealt with the social fear of exposure. Modesty was an issue well into the 1920’s. Under the “Bathing Suit Regulations” published in 1917, men’s suits had to be worn with a skirt so as not to expose too much. The introduction of Lastex in the 1930’s created the opportunity for men to have a more “nude” look without the skirts required 15 years earlier.
Despite this, baring the chest was still considered obscene and frowned upon. However, men continued to fight for their right to expose their chests and by early 1933 the result was a convertible-style suit that allowed the top to be removed. Called “Men’s Topper” the suit gave the wearer the opportunity to go bare if they wanted. Unfortunately, for many of those who did, this lead to arrests for “indecent exposure.” Finally, in 1937 men had the right to go topless and the public concern with nudity eroded as time passed. The boxer-type shorts we see today were first seen in the 1940’s and have remained the primary suit option for men through the 2000s.
An authentic, original “Men’s Topper” from the 1930s can be found at Abby’s Vintage Clothing, located at 105 North Main. This antique bathing suit is just one of hundreds of treasures she has in the store, which features clothing from the 1700s through the 1970s. Laura “Abby” Brown became interested in clothes at an early age by playing dress-up in her mother and grandmothers clothing, but didn’t seriously consider entering the business until after her employment at Repeat Performance, owned by vintage collector Evelyn Grady.
Abby said her favorite thing about having the shop is that when most people enter the door; it immediately brings a smile to their faces. “It depends on how old the person is,” she said. “But usually they reminisce about how their grandmother, mother, father or grandfather use to ‘have a pair of shoes just like that’.” Abby opened the store on April 9 of this year, but said she wished she could have opened on April 1 for April Fools Day. “I think that would have been a neat way to get things started,” she said.
For Abby, clothing is an ultimate part of our history. “It’s a very personal thing,” she said. “When people come in and identify with something it’s a very comforting feeling.” Abby said she doesn’t really have a typical customer. “I have everyone from historical re-enactors to textile collectors who love vintage,” she said. “Anyone who wants something that is one-of-a-kind can find something in my store.”
Abby has been collecting vintage items for 20 years and before opening her store, she sold her items over the Internet. “I decided to give the store a try,” she said. “And what better place for a store like this than historic St. Charles. Many people want to know where Abby manages to find items for the store. “I have a network of people who know the quality of garments I’m looking for to place in my store,” she said.
Many of the garments in the store were made by either skilled generational seamstresses or Union textile workers and not by today’s methods. “The quality of vintage clothing is unrivaled by today’s manufacturing base,” Abby said. “Today clothing is made to benefit the manufacturer and not the consumer.”
Abby’s favorite garment in the store right now is a French Silk Open Robe Polonaise dating back to 1790. Though Abby lists the robe from 1790 as her favorite, she said truthfully she likes it all. “My favorite is whatever happens to be in front of her at the time,” she said. Abby said she thinks fashion has the ability to teach us about not only our history, but also about social change. “By looking at the garments at a certain period we can see what was socially acceptable and even against the law,” she said.
For those looking for something fun to wear, a unique garment, a fun costume for Halloween or a special gift for someone else, Abby’s Vintage Clothing is a wonderful place to explore their options. Summer hours for Abby’s Vintage Clothing are from 1 p.m. until 7 p.m. seven days a week or she can be reached by calling the store at 636-255-0679.
